email forwarded by JKS Weerasekera.
Aluvihara
- it is a name of the olden ages that still resonates, a place held in deep
reverence, a temple, where a historical episode unfolded; it
invites
one to appreciate an unprecedented event of religious significance, dwellings
and artefacts of archaeological value and a curious and
picturesque
setting, all of which define its existence. The Aluvihara Cave Temple has
irrevocably etched a place in the annals of Sri Lankan
history. Ask any local familiar
with the history of the Island of the Aluvihara Cave Temple and they are most
likely to say that it is where the mammoth task of
transcribing
the Buddhist teachings or Tipitaka (colloquially termed Tripitaka) - the three
baskets of law - took place centuries ago. Till then the Buddhist
teachings
had been preserved through word of mouth for centuries. This knowledge alone
draws pilgrims, historians and archaeologists from far and wide to
visit
the temple precincts and explore its hidden mysteries and even legends. Notable
figures from neighbouring countries have themselves left indelible marks
of
their visits to the temple as venerations.
Along
the Matale-Dambulla road of the A9, the Cave Temple lies 30km north of Kandy.
It is a convenient stop en-route the renowned cultural triangle of the
Island.
Its entrance is unmistakable in that the arched gateway is flanked by boundary
walls bearing a series of sculptured elephant heads. Through the arches
the
road stretches like a straight ribbon to a flight of fairly steep steps that
leads to the heart of the rock temple.
Large
precipitous boulders leap into view. Upon entering the main cave complex it
appears as though a large boulder fell upon the earth and cracked open
leaving
a dramatic, deep cleft. Craggy landscape springs up at each turn towering over
the narrow alleyways. It gives one the impression that a tirade of
boulders
fell one upon the other. Snuggled beneath these boulders are ‘len' or the caves
that appear to strain timidly beneath. These rugged structures
overtime
have become swathed here and there by the lushness of nature.
The
Historical
The
era that King Walagamba came to rule was one of strife due to foreign invasions
and famine that plagued the island for many years. Following a selfimposed
exile
of 14 years the King reclaimed the throne and in 88 BC the urgency to preserve
the Buddha's teachings was felt as its verbal transmission was
no
longer deemed safe. Some of the Arahant monks who had sought refuge in India
from the 12 year long famine returned and converged with the remaining
Arahants
in the Island to commit the teachings to writing. Thus the Fifth Buddhist
Council was held at the Aluvihara Cave Temple in the 1st Century BC. It is
thought
that King Walagamba deemed the Aluvihara Cave Temple suitable due to its
secluded setting away from the conflict ridden capital, Anuradhapura.
One
can only imagine a conclave of 500 scholarly Arahants reciting the doctrines
while the scribes embedded the words into the written form on palm leaves
with
the use of a special stylus. Reaching a consensus on acceptable versions of the
doctrines, thereafter its reciting, and finally transcribing along with
commentaries
justifiably lasted many years to reach completion.
However
these treasured manuscripts were wholly destroyed by the British in 1848 during
the Matale Rebellion. An attempt to repeat history with the
rewriting
of the Tipitaka was made during 1981 - 1991 marking the Sixth Buddhist Council
held once again at the Aluvihara. These manuscripts are stored to
this
day at the Temple's museum.
Following
the narrow alleyway farther upwards finally leads to the pinnacle upon which
sits a small pearly white stupa built in 1812. Walking around its small
circumference
one can alternate between an overview of the rock monastery complex below and
the mountainous backdrop in the distance. Deeper below
lie
more of the natural caves hidden away from the main complexes in the grooves of
the landscape amidst the surrounding greenery and an abundance of
cocoa
trees. One can almost picture an ascetic seated within. Even today, monks
reside here and give sermons to the gathered devotees.
Exploring
the many sections of the temple one wonders where 500 Arahant monks would have
resided. Yet there are many caves hidden from view in and
beyond
the premises and the immediate precincts are home to 11 natural caves. The main
cave complex is an image house sheltering the reclining Buddha
statue
and is supposedly where the Fifth Buddhist Council was held. The walls within
are intricately muralled and even the aged doorways adorn inimitable
designs
belonging to the 18th Century Kandyan period. Farther down the complex is a
cave housing a replication of the historical event.
Further
to the many murals pertaining to Buddhist scriptures, Buddha statues and the
intriguing caves, there are many ancient markings of interest that one can
keep
an eye out for. The first of these is a short Brahmini inscription on the
exterior of the main cave complex beneath a dripledge - a rock-hewn ledge to
shelter
the cave from rainfall.
The
name
Originating
from the terms ‘Alu lena' or ‘Aloka Lena' that translates to ‘luminous cave',
the name evolved to ‘Alu Vihara' or ‘luminous temple'. There are
many
reasonings and legends behind the name. One theory is that the main cave where
the writing of the Tipitaka took place faced east and thus received the
morning
rays and remained illuminated. Another reasoning is that the writing of the
Tipitaka bestowed a doctrinal illumination to mankind and is hence suitably
named.
The
second is a carved bas-relief of a bo tree on a large boulder that lies beneath
the ancient tree. Another, an imprint of Buddha's footprint at the summit
near
the stupa believed to be a replication of the one at the Adam's Peak summit.
Another
structure of interest is the sand bench situated inconspicuously beside the
main complex. In ancient times apprentices first practiced their writing skills
with
the tip of their forefinger on this sand bench before proceeding with the
arduous task of writing holy scriptures on palm leaves. More valued artefacts
recovered
from the ruins are stored in the Temple's museum including the Yantra Gala, a
stone slab cut into 25 compartments in which offerings to the
Buddha
relic are placed and Chatra Gala, a circular stone slab used as an umbrella
shade for the stupa.
Of
the many cave temples in Sri Lanka, the Aluvihara is one that simply cannot be
overlooked. Its tranquil and captivating surroundings are nature's tribute to
ancient
monastic dwellings. Feet that may ever stray upon these premises will assuredly
stumble upon an authentic account of history, a spiritual encounter or
an
air of the mystique - shedding light into a distant past.
